Yattarna BIN 144 Chardonnay 2018 Penfolds

Cool-climate fruit from Tasmania, Tumbarumba and the Adelaide Hills, barrel fermented and matured eight months in 60% new French barriques, the 2018 Yattarna Chardonnay starts off with aromas of roasted nuts and toasted bread set against a backdrop of tart, citrusy fruit. Medium-bodied, there's just enough flesh to let you know this is Chardonnay—maybe a hint of underripe peach or nectarine—but this is more about line and length, with a strong backbone of acidity that drives the flavors forward into a long, mouth-puckering finish. Impressive, yes. But is it really that enjoyable? Maybe down the road, which is the intention.

A blend of Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit, this has an intense, stony and mineral freshness with a flinty edge and a wealth of lemon sherbet, white peaches and crushed stones on the nose. Oak is deeply buried. The palate has such striking and intense depth. It’s layered and long and really asserts itself as the most complex and most powerful chardonnay in this release. The depth and pristine grade of fruit here are impressive. Deep, pithy finish. Drink over the next eight years. Screw cap.

This white is incredibly intense, with tremendous precision to the white peach, Meyer lemon and flinty mineral notes, plus hints of white pepper, lime zest and makrut lime leaf. The sleek up-front concentration and vibrant acidity give way to a supple undertone of salted butter. The harmonious finish offers clarity and generosity. Drink now through 2030.

Translucent gold. Vibrant, mineral- and lees-tinged citrus and orchard fruit aromas show fine clarity and hints of honeysuckle and iodine. Displays sharp definition on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon and pear skin flavors that show firm tension and back-end lift. The mineral quality repeats strongly on the impressively persistent finish, which leaves behind resonating and citrus fruit and floral notes.