Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia DOC 2022 Conterno

Barbera does not mind a hot vintage, and from that we can extrapolate that this variety has the most latitude when it comes to climate change. However, it is also vulnerable to Esca disease, and this is a big concern for vintner Roberto Conterno and the winemaking community at large. The 2022 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia sees fruit mostly from the lower part of this celebrated site, with vines planted in 1974. Various stages of vine replacement have occurred over the years, and the team is now deciding to start more comprehensive replanting efforts. "Things have gotten worse in the last three years," he says. The Francia vineyard has calcareous soils at the top with sandy and blue marl below. That layer is almost as hard as cement, he says, and it starts to break apart in areas closer to the surface. The soils between upper and lower Francia (with Nebbiolo and Barbera, respectively) don't change too much. This is a beautiful wine with lingering aromas of dark fruit, sous-bois, potting soil and wet iron. The wine's fruit profile grows with time in the glass, giving black cherry intensity. With an ample 15.5% alcohol content, it offers a very richly developed mouthfeel with extra textural heft.

The 2022 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia is a delicate, understated wine, surprisingly so in this intensely warm, dry year. Sweet red-toned cherry/plum fruit, blood orange and oral top notes are beautifully delineated. Silky tannins wrap it all together in style. I expected to see a more opulent Barbera here. Instead, the 2022 is a bit compact today. That may serve it well over the coming years, hence my optimism about its future prospects.